Princess Cut Diamonds = Modern & Brilliant
Princess cut diamonds utilize about 80% of the original diamond, whereas the round cut utilizes approximately 50%. This makes the princess cut more affordable to produce. GIA grading reports describe princess cut diamonds as “Square Modified Brilliant”. This distinguishes them from the step cut facet arrangements you find on other square diamonds like the Asscher cut. The princess cut is also more of a forgiving cut because it will camouflage small imperfections. On the other hand, the corners on princess cut diamonds are more prone to fracture and chip. Although, well-placed prongs (generally a 4-prong setting) can protect them.
Examples of Princess Cut Diamonds
Characteristics To Look For
Princess cut diamonds are generally referred to as “Square Modified Brilliant”. This is because the faceting style is based on the round brilliant cut with triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from the center. An ideal square princess cut has a length-to-width ratio not exceeding 1:05:1. Princess cuts can also be rectangular or tapered. So stick to the 1:05:1 ratio unless you want a more rectangular shape. Also, keep in mind that the symmetry of the facets helps to create the beauty of the cut. Therefore, you should avoid cuts that have uneven sides or unequal proportions since they are less desirable.
For princess cut diamonds, it’s important to have a balanced contrast of light and dark patterns in the table and facets. A stone that is either too light or too dark is typically not as attractive as one that has a nice balance of light and dark patterns. Table ratio (width of table facet divided by diamond width) for a good princess cut diamond is around 56 percent and above. Also, total depth for a good princess cut diamond should be around 58 percent and above. Be sure to avoid stones that have extremely thin or extremely thick girdle thickness. As for the pavilion, it should slope gently from the girdle to the culet (culet is the sharp point at the bottom of the diamond). If the slope is steep, it can create a pavilion bulge, making the stone look dark and adding extra weight. As a result, you should look for a princess cut diamond with a non-existent or very small cutlet.
Color & Clarity
Evaluating color and clarity in princess cut diamonds can be subjective. For a good quality princess cut diamond, look for a stone above the color I and a clarity range between VS1 and SI2. If you go below these diamond grades, the diamonds may show tints of color and visible inclusions. Note, GIA grades diamonds on a color scale of D (colorless) through Z (light color) and a clarity scale of FL (flawless) through I3 (visible inclusions).
One Final Note
You should stick with retailers who specialize in princess cut diamond rings with certifications. The best diamond certification laboratories are GIA, AGS, EGL-USA, and IGI. Don’t worry if this seems confusing. If you choose to get your ring with Vanessa Nicole, she will ensure that all of your diamond choices are in line with the ideal standards for a GORGEOUS princess diamond.
Let Vanessa Nicole be your guide. Vanessa Nicole Jewels creates stunning, custom-made wedding bands and engagement rings for couples around the globe. Every ring we make is truly one of a kind, designed exclusively for each client. Contact Vanessa today to learn more about your options, or learn more by reading our diamond education article.
Hi, I’m Vanessa Nicole – master diamond setter and author of the best-selling book, The Perfect Custom Engagement Ring. My educational engagement ring videos have amassed nearly half a million views on YouTube, so be sure to check those out if you need design inspiration for your ring. When I’m not playing with diamonds, you can find me tickling my twin boys, or kicking back watching a movie with my awesome husband (my teenage sweetheart).
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